вЂњLabels should break down all the ingredients that go into a piece, for example, one line for the fabric and a second for the embroidery.вЂќД¬outurier Mishra comments:В вЂњThe making of a couture piece is a journey starting from the weaving of its base textile and surface embellishment to the final tailoring of the piece. Modesti would like to see Western fashion houses recognising the Indian contribution. Embroidered and crochet exports were valued at $463 million in 2020-2021, according to Government of India figures, with France high on the list of destinations.ДЄrtisans working in this niche sector can earn three times more than other textile workers and work in factories that have SA 8000 certification (an international social accountability standard to encourage organisations to develop, maintain and apply socially acceptable practices in the workplace), according to industry insiders. Textiles is the second-highest employer in India, with hand embroidery a specialist subsector. вЂњWhat would really make a difference is when these skills or know-how become a source of pride for the brand, the way Japanese denim is prized and serves to increase the value of the product and the brand using it.вЂќ Breaking down the label WhatвЂ™s of more value is a proper and sincere emphasis on building a longtime worldwide reputation. HermГЁs had a special line of products called Ahmedabad, handcrafted in India, he points out.Д«ut he fears that an acknowledgement of the Indian contribution might turn into a one-season marketing ploy. He's been living and working in Paris for over two decades, including for Christian Lacroix and HermГЁs under Martin Margiela, and was previously creative director for Moynat. Ramesh Nair,В creative director of Paris leather goods specialist Joseph Duclos,В who graduated with the first generation of DelhiвЂ™s National Institute of Fashion Technology in 1989, agrees that itвЂ™s time to be more open.

вЂњThirty years ago, this was a secret, but in these times, you cannot hide it,вЂќ says Maximiliano Modesti, founder of Les Ateliers 2M, a luxury embroidery company in Mumbai whose clients have included Alaia, John Galliano and Isabel Marant. Ashi, who is based in Paris, reckons as much as 90 per cent of all hand embroidery in Couture Week comes from India (including all of his).

Secrets donвЂ™t really work in the modern era. IndiaвЂ™s excellence in textiles has been recognised in Europe since at least the 17th century, including fine fabrics, exceptional embroidery and dyeing skills.В The French courts of Marie Antoinette and JosГ©phine Bonaparte sourced fabrics from India, although French tailors received the credit for the garments. A fundamental way of telling the ever-changing and complex story of haute couture today.вЂќ A history of mystery Highlighting the extraordinary history and savoir-faire of India is a concrete way of speaking the language of inclusivity and diversity. вЂњAnd, in order to do so, we have overlooked or underplayed other stories that are fundamental in understanding the richness that defines contemporaneity globally. вЂњIn the Eurocentric tradition, we have talked about the excellence of countries like France and Italy,вЂќ she says. Chiuri believes itвЂ™s important to highlight Indian excellence. It was kept on display for a week after the couture presentation. The handmade textile work took 320 artisans over 200,000 hours to create.

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